Pinnacles National Park guide

California's smallest and youngest national park is an ancient volcano's traveling remains, rock spires and crags hoisted out of ranchland east of the Salinas Valley, riddled with talus caves and patrolled by the largest flying bird in North America. It's two hours from the Bay Area and most people have never been. Their loss, your gain.

East or west? Decide first

Pinnacles has two entrances separated by the rock formation itself, and no road between them, choosing wrong adds a 90 minute drive around. The east side (via Hollister) has the visitor center, campground, Bear Gulch caves, and the reservoir; it's the better first visit. The west side (via Soledad) offers the Balconies caves and quicker access to the High Peaks' west face, with a narrow, winding entrance road. Either side reaches the High Peaks loop; the east just does it with more amenities.

The signature day: caves, reservoir, and peaks

From the east side, the classic route stacks the park's three best things into one 6-7 mile figure: climb through Bear Gulch Cave, a talus cave formed by giant boulders wedged over a creek (bring a flashlight; it sometimes closes to protect its resident bats), then emerge at the improbably charming Bear Gulch Reservoir and take the Rim Trail and High Peaks loop up among the spires. The High Peaks' "steep and narrow" section is the park's thrill: stairs blasted into rock faces, handrails bolted to cliffs, and constant scanning of the sky. Why the sky? Read on.

Condors

California condors: 9.5 foot wingspans, back from the brink of extinction, nest in this park, and the High Peaks at morning or late afternoon is one of the most reliable places on earth to see one soar at eye level. You'll know: turkey vultures rock side to side in flight, condors hold steady as a plank and blot out an alarming amount of sky. Numbered wing tags confirm the sighting. It does not get old.

When to visit

Spring (March-May) is peak Pinnacles: green hills, wildflowers, active condors, comfortable temperatures. Fall and winter are quiet and lovely, with crisp light on the rock. Summer is brutally hot with little shade, if you must, hike at dawn and be done by 11. The caves close periodically for bat pupping season and after storms; check status before promising them to kids.

Before you go

Plan your day

Tell the planner where you're starting from and when, and it builds a timed itinerary from this guide's stops.